Poringland Roofers installs solar PV panels on homes across Taverham, handling every roofing element from structural checks to weatherproof mounting so your system performs from day one.
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A solar PV installation is two trades working together: roofing and electrical. On the roofing side, we assess the pitch, condition and load-bearing capacity of your roof before a single panel goes up. We fit the mounting brackets, rails and flashings, and make sure every penetration through the roof covering is properly sealed. The cabling, inverter and metering should be handled by a certified electrician. Neither side of that job is optional if you want a system that lasts.
Pitched roofs suit solar well because the pitch sheds rain naturally and gives good sun exposure for a south-facing or near-south-facing slope. Flat roofs can also carry panels using a ballasted frame or low-profile mounting system, though the structural loading calculation matters more on flat sections.
The panels themselves are most commonly monocrystalline silicon, which is efficient, widely available and straightforward to mount. A typical domestic system runs from 3.5 kWp to 6 kWp for a semi-detached or detached house, with larger arrays possible on bigger roofs. Output depends on the usable roof area, the pitch, the orientation, and how much shading from trees or chimneys affects the panels during the day.
A fully installed domestic solar PV system in the UK currently runs from around £5,000 for a small 3 kWp system to £9,000 or more for a 6 kWp system including all materials, mounting, roofing work and electrical installation. Those figures assume a straightforward pitched roof with good access.
Adding battery storage increases the cost but lets you use power generated during the day at night. A battery storage unit typically adds £2,500 to £5,000 depending on capacity, brand and whether the inverter is already hybrid-capable. The payback calculation changes significantly when you factor in avoided import costs versus export tariffs, so it is worth running those numbers before deciding whether battery storage makes sense for your household's usage patterns.
Roof condition affects the final cost. If tiles need replacing, pointing needs attention, or the felt and battens underneath are deteriorating, those repairs should be done before panels go on. Fitting solar over a roof that will need work in three years means taking the panels off and refitting them, which adds cost and disruption. We check all of this during the initial survey.
The process starts with a roof survey. We look at the structural condition of the rafters, the state of the roof covering, the orientation and pitch, any shading from chimneys or nearby trees, and whether the existing fixings into the roof structure are sound enough to carry the additional load. This is not a desk exercise - it has to be done from the roof itself.
Once the roof survey is complete, the electrical installer assesses your consumer unit, meter and any existing solar or battery equipment. From there, you get a clear picture of what the system will look like, what it will cost, and what preparation work (if any) needs to happen first.
The roofing work comes first: brackets anchored into the rafters, rails fixed to the brackets, flashings fitted around any penetrations, and a visual check of the whole roof covering afterwards. The electrician then fits the inverter, cables from roof to consumer unit, and the generation meter. The system is then commissioned and tested before anyone signs off.
Once you have booked a solar installation and confirmed the survey date, there are practical steps you can take in the weeks before the team arrives that will make the job go more smoothly and help you get the most from the system once it is running.
Start by pulling together any paperwork you have on your roof. If you had it re-roofed, had repairs done, or had a structural survey when you bought the house, those documents tell us immediately whether there are any known issues with the timbers or covering. If you do not have them, do not worry - the survey will establish the current state - but existing records speed things up.
Check your loft. The access hatch needs to be usable, and ideally you should be able to see the underside of the rafters clearly. During the survey we may need to look at rafter spacing and condition from below, particularly if the roof is older or has had previous modifications. A clear path through the loft makes that faster and more accurate.
Look at your consumer unit and note its location, make and whether it has any spare ways (slots for circuit breakers). Send a photo to the electrician before the survey day if possible. An older fuse board without RCD protection may need upgrading before a solar system can be connected safely - knowing this in advance avoids surprises on installation day.
Clear the area around your electricity meter. The inverter is usually fitted in the loft or on a wall near the consumer unit, and the generation meter sits alongside the existing meter. Electricians need reasonable working space around both. Boxes, bikes and shelving units stored against the meter cupboard or under the stairs slow everything down.
If you have a south-facing wall or outbuilding roof visible from the back garden, note whether there is any shading at different times of day. Walk out at 10am, 12pm and 3pm on a clear day and see which parts of the roof are in shade. Shading from a chimney stack, a tall hedge or a neighbouring extension can affect output more than people expect, and that information helps during design.
Think about your usage patterns now, before the system is in. Solar PV generates most in the middle of the day. If you are at home during the day you will use more of what you generate directly. If you are out until the evening, a battery becomes more valuable. Knowing roughly when your household uses most power helps the designer size the system and battery (if any) sensibly.
Finally, check whether your home insurance policy needs updating before or immediately after installation. Panels are usually classed as part of the building structure once fitted, and most insurers will want to know they are there. A quick call to your insurer before the installation date is all it takes.
Solar panel installation attracts a lot of DIY interest, and some people do buy panel kits online and attempt self-installation. In the UK, the electrical connection of a solar PV system to the grid must be carried out by a registered competent person - typically someone registered under an approved scheme. Doing the electrical work yourself and self-certifying is not legal for this type of installation. Getting it wrong can invalidate your home insurance and create a problem when you sell the property.
The roofing side carries its own risks. Drilling into rafters without knowing their depth, spacing or condition risks weakening the structure. Flashings fitted incorrectly around bracket penetrations are the single most common cause of leaks from solar installations we are asked to investigate. Water finds its way through the smallest gap over time, and by the time a stain appears on the ceiling the damage to the felt, battens and possibly the plasterboard below can be significant.
Do not attempt to clean solar panels from a ladder propped against the edge of the roof. Access equipment for working at height is regulated for good reason. If panels need cleaning - which they rarely do in normal UK rainfall - a specialist with the right equipment and access system should do it.
Avoid adjusting or re-angling a mounted panel yourself if you think it is not sitting correctly. The mounting rails and clamps are torqued to specific values. Loosening a clamp by hand and retightening it without a torque wrench means you do not know whether the connection is secure. Wind loading on panels is considerable, particularly on exposed roof pitches, and a panel that is not correctly secured is a serious risk.
If you notice a panel appears to have shifted, or a flashing looks like it has lifted, report it to your installer. Do not get on the roof yourself to check.
Before you commit to any installer, ask them directly who carries out the roofing work and who does the electrical installation. Some companies subcontract both. There is nothing wrong with that, but you should know who is responsible for each part and who your point of contact is if something needs attention afterwards.
Ask to see a copy of the planned mounting specification - the type and spacing of brackets, how they are fixed into the rafters, and what flashings are used. A credible installer will explain this without hesitation. Vague answers about "industry-standard fixings" are a reason to ask further questions.
Ask how the roof will be left after installation. The tiles immediately around each bracket should be checked, any cracked or slipped tiles replaced, and the whole roof surface inspected for anything disturbed during the work. Ask whether a visual check of the roof is included in the scope.
Ask what happens to your roof warranty if one exists. Some tile manufacturers have conditions around penetrations and fixings. If your tiles are relatively new, it is worth checking.
Battery storage lets you keep unused electricity generated during the day and use it in the evening. Without a battery, any power you do not use at the moment it is generated is exported to the grid. With a battery, that power stays in your home until you need it, reducing what you import from the grid in the evening.
Whether the additional cost makes financial sense depends on how much of your electricity use happens outside daylight hours. For most working households where consumption is high in the morning and evening but low during the day, a battery of 5 kWh to 10 kWh capacity typically gives the best return. Larger batteries suit larger households or homes with electric vehicle charging.
If you are considering an electric vehicle charger at the same time, plan all three elements - panels, battery and charger - together rather than adding them in stages. The inverter and consumer unit configuration can make a material difference to how efficiently the three systems interact.
As well as Taverham, we carry out solar panel installations across the Norwich area and surrounding villages including Hellesdon, Drayton, Cringleford, Hethersett, Mulbarton, Wymondham, Long Stratton, Loddon and Poringland. For larger properties or rural land, ground-mounted solar is an option worth discussing at survey stage.
If you are thinking about solar for your home in Taverham, the first step is a proper roof survey to establish whether the structure is ready and what system size suits your roof and usage. Call us to arrange that survey and we will give you a straight answer on what is feasible before any costs are committed.
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Call any time. Calls are answered day and night and passed straight to our roofers.
